Isotope GMT 0º Another Massive Hit?
Inspiration
Jose the owner of Isotope Watches and designer of the Isotope GMT 0º kindly let me borrow this watch after he read my last review. The last review just happened to be another of his watches the Goutte d’Eau Compressor Diver. And like his last design this watch is a stunner and has been inspired by industrial designs and structures. The Lacrima shape comes from the 1956 Max Bill Kitchen Clock which runs through all his designs and what a design this is!
Case
I like the case on the Isotope GMT 0º as it is perfectly proportioned for my 7″ wrist. Looks great and has its own sense of style. All too often I’m bored by the case and let’s be honest there are only so many designs out there before there is some overlapping in design structure or just plain copying. It’s encouraging to see new design elements and surprise us with a little tweak.
The Isotope GMT 0º case has a beautiful side profile and is a delight to look at from various angles. When observing this case and moving it around it absorbs and moves the light around making it a stunning watch to photograph. A very easy to grip signed crown sits center case also enhancing this side profile. This brushed case with a height of 14.2mm really is a looker and then you factor in those incredible well-done lugs with deeply engraved voids, it all comes together nicely.
The only thing I’m not too fussed on is the screwed lugs which require two screwdrivers to remove them. This leaves the potential to damage the case. However, this has been addressed and the straps will all be quick release, again Jose has taken appropriate action when he’d discovered this problem in the prototype.
The case is topped with a brushed bezel and an anti-reflective domed crystal sapphire which enhances the side profile further and protects the dial nicely. Think this case can’t get any better? Well, you’d be wrong it can! The open caseback pays homage to the Max Bill Kitchen Clock mentioned earlier. Then come the engravings from the world’s major cities’ time zones with the hour’s difference from Greenwich. This screw-down caseback is tested to 200m / 20 ATM making this watch useable for almost any occasion.
Other dimensions of the Isotope GMT 0º are 41.5mm x 39.5mm (44.7mm with lugs). The lug width is 24mm.
Dial
The dial is as unique as the case on the Isotope GMT 0º and also carries the design form of the Max Bill Kitchen Clock in two areas. Firstly, the central disc of the GMT is the GMT hour hand. Secondly, the printed indexes of the GMT run for 24 hours and on to both layers of this 3D sandwich dial. At 2200 through to the 0200 marks, the bottom dial is exposed to reveal the tribute to the Max Bill.
On the exterior of the central GMT indexes is the date wheel which consists of 31 drilled holes with indexes printed on the out exterior of the hole and a date indicator pip. This is currently hard to see at times. Fortunately, this has already been addressed as this is a prototype. Jose’s attention to detail shines through and shows a real commitment to delivering on every aspect of functionality the watch is meant to deliver.
On the outer edge of the dial sitting proudly at 12 in the Isotope GMT 0º company logo followed by 11 cut-out indexes exposing the bottom black dial. The colours on the dial and hands all carry through in various shades of green on the model for review with the exception of the second’s hands and date pip in orange.
Movement
A swiss made customised Swisstech S24-45 is based on ETA 2893. The customisation is to Jose’s specification and is automatic, self-winding with a power reserve of 40 hours. 28 Jewels, 28800 vph ensures a smooth 8 beats per second, and accuracy -12/+12 s/day. Addtional the movement is finished with a customised date and rotor.
Bracelet / Straps
A 24mm colour-specific Cordura strap with a high-end strap buckle that taper’s to 22mm is the primary strap. Unfortunately, I’ve not been sent this strap as I have the additional leather strap that comes with the watch. Although, I’ve seen enough of Jose’s straps selection to know this will be good quality.
In the box
Something Jose’s likes to do is deliver value for money and this is no different with the extras!!!
- A specific Cordura strap with a high-end buckle
- Extra leather strap
- Exclusive Isotope tool
- Limited Warranty Card (36 Months)
- Note: Limited Edition Boxes might have different content.
Specification
Swiss made customised Swisstech S24-45 (3 years warranty):
- Automatic, self-winding
- Power reserve 40 hours
- 28 Jewels, 28800A/h
- Accuracy -12/+12 s/day
- Customised finishing, date and rotor
- Brushed case, 316L stainless steel/Black Diamond-like Carbon
- Case diameter 41.5mm x 39.5mm (44.7mm with lugs)
- Height 14.2mm
- Exhibition screwed case back with the world’s major cities time-zone
- Anti-reflective domed crystal sapphire
- Single Screw-down crown at 3 o’clock
- Hands applied with Super-LumiNova®
Dial Variations
In Steel Case
- White
- Black
- Blue
- Olive Green
In Black DLC Case Limited Editions of 49
- Olive Green
- Ruby.
- A 24mm colour specific Cordura strap with a high-end buckle
- Extra leather strap
- Water-resistance 200m / 20 atm / 656 ft
- Your numbered GMT 0º
- Exclusive Isotope tool
- Limited Warranty Card (36 Months)
- Note: Limited Edition Boxes might have different content.
Final Thoughts
I know the Isotope GMT 0º is a good watch especially when I find it difficult to let the watch go back to the brand owner. Sorry, Jose’s I’m not finished with the watch I need it a few days longer haha!
However, what makes it an excellent watch is that attention to detail and very minor problems I’ve picked up on really is me nit-picking and, looking for something difficult to find with this watch a negative! My opinion is this simple buy it if you like the design, you’ll not be disappointed and at £710 this watch is good value. Even better until the end of May Jose has a 15% off offer! I’d buy one if you’re interested as I’m aware the movement price has gone up and will see the price of this beauty rise.
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